The hole on the plastic outlines the depth needed.ħ. To make the channel I used an angle grinder. To also keep the plastic tube from sliding inside the handle, but keeping it at the same time retractable in case of repair, I thought of making a channel, back and front. How about providing a start and an end hole on the handle – like this the wire won‘t slide up or down, and is kept from unwinding itself, too.Ħ. This is the hole opposite to the switch, seen before. It‘s a nice black matte finish.ĥ. Let‘s see how we can fix the copper wire. This was the final color from these spray cans, so to avoid the usual speckles I covered the head completely.Ĥ. I‘m painting the handle. I wanted the head to be of a clean metal look, the handle contrasted with black and copper. But it can‘t be pressed in completely, so there‘s a resistance needed, here provided by inserting a plastic tube, that perfectly fit into the handle.ģ. After drilling, there is the time to do some cosmetic work. Once the hole is drilled, the body of the switch vanishes in the tube. The red tape indicates the place under my thumb that I can easily manipulate without losing control of the hammer.Ģ. Here‘s the real switch, it‘s a micro switch. The hammer is supposed to build up centrifugal force, so both hands should always sty in contact with the handle. A different solution (later more) had to be called for.ġ. Locate the place for your switch. I tried to use the hot glue on the e-magnet itself too, but it kept falling off. In the head of the hammer you can see the real placement of the power unit. The battery for the relay, the relay, the power unit (27V) and the electro magnet.Ħ. Let‘s take out the hot glue to make every part at home where it belongs. The little loop in the small picture connects minuses (3) of one block with the pluses (3) of the second block.Ĥ. The last block to be connected in series needs a longer cable to cover the gap (because the magnet goes in between).Īnd a few Amperes (don‘t own an ammeter :-)).ĥ. The complete circuit waiting to be packed. This way the Amperes are rising – thus the power of the electro magnet.ģ. To get a higher voltage, the blocks are now connected in series. The batteries in each block are connected in paralleles. On this picture you can see the handle connected to the body, it‘s a 27 mm metal tube, 50 cm long.ġ. Before connecting the 9V batteries together, I tried different locations for them – this one in the end didn‘t get used, but it gave me a good sense of the space available.Ģ. The batteries are bundled in 3x3 blocks, they are separated to leave a center space for the electro magnet. Later it came to my mind that one could have used a C-beam (half an I-beam) to build this structure,too.ĥ. The hammerhead assembled, it‘s a tight fit, with almost no gaps to be seen. A hole to connect the hammer head (holding the electronic gear) with the handle (carrying the switch).Ĥ. Here you can see better the side walls – plus the 8 holes (4 tongues, 4 sides) for the screws, to keep the gear inside accessible. The side walls aren‘t fixed yet.ģ. Two more tongues fixed to connect with the side walls. The metal used here is steel (3mm), bent to specifications ((see PDF file).One can see the added tongues to later close the body of the hammer head. See the included PDF file for a more refined layout.Ģ. The original plans are a bit crude, though some ideas (copper wire, meassures) were already sketched out. If one circles around oneself, you build up a lot of momentum (like in the Olympic hammer throw), but you won't let go of the hammer, but of the metal pieces temporarily connected.Įnough of theory, lets collect the parts and build it!ġ. Like every good project, this too started off on the designing table. Switched on it will "grab" metal objects, and when switched off – release them again. Instead of throwing Mjolnir, I'm throwing pieces of metal that are connected to the hammer. Throwing my hammer wouldn't be very efficient, since it would (probably) not return to its master by itself. The last two points I'm going to solve with electronics. Steel is solid so the hammer will get stronger, Mjolnir was also made out of metal, so mine is going to look like the real one.Īll the elements in the universe except hydrogen, helium, lithium and beryllium where made in stars, so my Mjolnir is going to be made out of a dead star!! I decided to have the hammer made out of steel because it will make the project simpler. It must come to life on after you touch it It must be strong to survive punching and hitting, but on the other hand should be light enough for easy handling Ours will be a bit simpler compared to the original but it will meet at least a few points. The real Thor hammer allows you to fly, throw lightnings and so and so on.
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